I've made it back safely to Upernavik after an exhilarating kayak
journey to the north!!! Our small group spent
two weeks paddling a circuit of small islands off the coast of mainland
Greenland at about 75 degrees N latitude.
Our destination was Reindeer Valley/Tugtulikavsak. We threaded our boats through fjords littered
with icebergs, camped on tiny islands, drank from glaciers, hiked on the inland
ice, and saw no one but a couple of Inuit hunters searching for seal and
narwhal.
Kayakers in intense arctic light |
We paddled through some pretty dense ice on this trip... yowzah! |
Mainland glacier meets the sea, as seen from the chopper |
It’s hard to ground my experience here on the page, to put to words
what was so completely breathtaking and, in the truest sense, awesome.
Saturday July 7. I dream so deeply out here, lavishly. The days fall seamlessly into one another,
night becoming day becoming night again. Always light. The world feels timeless
and on some mornings I wake disoriented, forgetting where I am – and who I am.
Our group was led by Nikolaj, a Dane now living in Upernavik, and his
assistant Rickard - a kind and fun-loving young Swede. Two Germans, Jan and Mieka, recently married,
rounded out our posse. We flew by
helicopter on July 5th to the very small settlement of
Kuvndlorssuaq, where our kayaks, gear, and an unprecedented Arctic adventure awaited
us.
Orange lichen and a kayaker fishing |
Kuvdlorssuaq… is unlike any place you’ve ever been, as are all the
settlements here in GL!! It’s home to a
couple hundred people and as many sled dogs.
There are no cars or roads, no plumbing or running water. The stench of rotting seal blubber and whale
carcasses is overpowering. Piles of
trash – including plastic bags full of human waste - lie in the dust by the
small houses. Steeply pitched footpaths
connect the settlement, and all ways lead to the harbor.
The settlement of Kuvndlorssuaq |
We loaded our boats while surrounded by a throng of local kids and
adults, since no one is shy and tourists in Kuvdlorssuaq are rare. As in Upernavik, there are many babies and
teen mothers. I haven’t yet looked up
demographics for this area, but it seems like half the population is under age
25 – and I wonder what their lives will be like, are like. I managed to interview/film a young mother
who works at the health care center in the settlement. She spoke some English! It was so cool to swap stories with her.
We spent the night with a local hunter and his large expended
family. The men of Kuvdlorssuaq still
hunt traditionally and many husbands, fathers, and sons were out on hunting
trips when we arrived. We were served mattock by the women of the family, raw whale
skin in broth. There is clearly no
wealth in the settlement but our hosts own a large HD TV which blared English
and Danish sitcoms throughout dinner. I longed to talk more with our Inuit
hosts, but it takes time to become conversant in Greenlandic/Kalaalisut!!
Sweet kids in Kuvdlorssuaq |
Inuit hunter posing with the (huge) penis bone of a walrus |
Boys in Kuvdlorssuaq |
The following morning, after little sleep, we wrestled our remaining
gear (somehow) into the kayaks, waved to the crowd gathered at the harbor and
headed north through open water, finally on the sea!! It was a relief to shed the chaos of our travel
and preparation days as we paddled into the long light of the Far North.
Mist rising from the ice, ethereal |
IT WAS SO EXCITING TO FINALLY SEE THE ICE UP CLOSE!!!!!!! WOW!!!!!
What had existed only in my imagination before became suddenly,
irrevocably real. It felt like a dream
to be kayaking near icebergs glowing with sapphire light as I navigated the
fjords, each berg like a translucent porcelain sculpture adrift on the water.
|
Rock. Ice. Sea. Sky. After
several days paddling, I realized my world had been reduced to these four
essential elements, the yellow of my kayak and drysuit startling the monochrome
of blue and white that defines the Arctic.
Tuesday July 10. A break from paddling today. We explored Reindeer Valley and hiked to the
inland ice today – walking on the glacier!!! It’s spectacular, surreal. Didn’t break down camp – decided to stay 2
nights here instead. A luxury, but the
mosquitoes are so bad, devouring me even through my layers and the bug net over
my head, ugh.
Our days had a rhythm, and I felt blessed to have a tent to myself to
collapse in after exhausting days on the water and with each other. We’d usually meet around 8:30 each morning
for some kind of breakfast and I would wake up early to sneak in some reading ("A Naturalist's Guide to the Arctic", by E.C. Pielou)
and writing time before a full day with no downtime. Then the work of breaking camp and moving
kayaks back to the waterline, meticulously packing the boats, suiting up to
kayak, and finally hitting the water for a couple hours where I could be
quieter with my thoughts, a relief from the everlasting noise of the group -
the banter a combination of Danish, Swedish, and German as well as English!
Home for the night, Reindeer Valley |
I’m not sure if it’s a European thing, but the meals were so protracted
they tried my patience. (Maybe this is
because I’ve been 22 years a vegan and there was so little for me to survive on
for this trip?!) We’d paddle to an
island for lunch, fight off the droves of mosquitoes while we ate, paddle a few
more hours and make camp again, pull our boats to shore high above the waves, and immediately start making dinner, with several
fuel stoves going at once.
I have to reveal that there were no reindeer to be seen at Reindeer
Valley, though birdlife was plentiful.
I saw eider ducks, Arctic terns, glaucous gulls, snow buntings, and black
guillemots. But the only mammals we saw
were a few bearded seals. No beluga, no narwhal. I spotted a single fish in the water below my boat in all the days we
kayaked. And when Nikolaj and Rickard
fished on three consecutive evenings, they came back empty handed every
time. It has definitely made me wonder
what’s going on; if even here in the Arctic we are feeling the effects of
centuries of commercial fishing and that things have become out of balance.
Thursday July 12. Wake to the cacophony of arctic terns
overhead and the explosions of icebergs calving, breaking apart. Sounds like
gunfire. We do actually have two rifles
with us in case of polar bear, to scare them off. How strange to be traveling with
weapons. You can buy guns and ammo in
the grocery store in GL. Everyone owns
guns here.
My boat on a rare Arctic beach |
The good news is, all five of us managed to avoid the potential disaster
of flipping a fully loaded kayak into the frigid Arctic waters!!! I did
a lot of filming, photographing, and note-taking. I’m musing constantly about what art will
result from my time here, and what I will create now in the studio while still in GL. I had the experience of a lifetime these last
weeks on the sea, in one of the last truly wild places on Earth. Gratitude fills me.
I’m writing (offline) tonight in the comfort and solitude of my red
house on the shore in Upernavik again.
It’s late. I slept 11 hours last
night and can feel that tonight will be much the same. I’m so tired.
A motorboat of fishermen has just sped past. I wonder if they caught
anything. The fog drifted in last night
and has shrouded the village since morning.
Hard to believe it’s July. Hard
to believe so many multiple/coincident realities exist on this little blue
planet we all call home.
Incredible, awe-inspiring. Thank you for sharing. I love the "porcelain" icebergs! I want to read this again and again so I can be transported there in some small way. Sending you love!!! xoxoxo
ReplyDeleteRebecca, your words so vividly painted me into your current reality, so far removed from all the variations of "normal" that we experience, even when we travel. I will share this link with the rest of the Big Wheel Racing team so they'll know how you are and what you're doing. I'm sure you haven't the time to keep up with stateside events, so I'll fill you in on what little excitement is happening here. Michael Cleveland completed the Tour Divide, and is en route back to Germany as I type. Mostly it's status quo, so I'll close with hugs and well wishes for your safety and happiness. Claudia
ReplyDeleteYo Rebecca! You are living an exciting life for sure. Too bad those mosquitos aren't vegan as well!
ReplyDeleteThanks Rebecca, Very inspiring!
ReplyDeleteThanks you guys, it's definitely an adventure up here! Matt and Claudia, I miss my bikes and can't wait to get back in shape. My arms are ripped from paddling but my legs are withering :) thanks for your love and support, big hugs from Greenland!
ReplyDeleteBecca, thanks so much for your commitment, your words, your descriptions of place I probably will never see in person. I also appreciate the truth of the situation that includes burning garbage, human waste, lack of fish to eat and your struggles to maintain your vegan lifestyle. Love from Durango.
ReplyDelete